So you want to shop for a bike ?
(Check out these tips?)
When shopping for a bike, keep in mind you're also shopping for a bike shop. Ask yourself if they understand your needs, or seem to be pitching today's special? How do they assure that the bike fits you? And, very importantly, ask yourself if the shop is the sort of place you'll feel comfortable bringing the bike back to if something's not quite right.
Keep in mind that these items are far more important than a $50 difference in price, since the most expensive bike you can buy is the one you don't use because it's not quite right. So you've decided you want a new road bike, and plan to test-ride a couple. Here's a few things that will help you get a fair comparison and make the right choice!
-
What the shop will require.
First, a couple things to keep in mind. You're going to be taking a spin on something that's reasonably expensive, so assume the shop's going to require you to leave something valuable that ensures your return. Often it's a valid current California driver's license. Some shops may require a charge card authorization for the value of the bike, and some require car keys. Others might want your first born?
2. What you should bring.
Bike Helmet - it's a good idea to try and stay alive. Bike shoes and clipless pedals - if you've already got clipless pedals from another bike, bring your shoes with you! It's much better to test ride a bike the way you're used to riding. If the pedal system is something other than standard SPD (the typical mountain-style recessed-cleat pedal/shoe system), then bring along your pedals as well, and have them installed on whichever bike you ride. Bike shorts - if you've got cycling shorts bring those too. You want to be testing out the bike and not be distracted by uncomfortable clothing etc.
3. How the bikes should be set up.
OK, you've figured out a couple bikes you'd like to ride. Remember, you want to test each bike under optimal conditions, so here are some things to make sure of:
Make sure the seat is adjusted properly...both for height and tilt. The nose of the seat should be level with the back, and even small variations here can make tremendous differences in comfort. Once you have the seat height figured out, have it measured (from center of crank to the top of the saddle) and set up each subsequent bike to exactly the same height. This is very important, as even small changes in seat height can have a dramatic effect on how a bike feels...and you're testing a bike, not a saddle position!
It may be possible for a skilled salesperson to take a quick look at your position on the bike, with your hands on the lever hoods (where you'll be spending most of your time with STI levers) and notice that you'll definitely need a shorter, or longer, stem (the part that holds the handlebars to the fork). In some cases, this change can be made very quickly, due to new stem designs that allow you to change the stem without having to remove & reinstall the brake levers and handlebar tape. It's definitely in the best interest of the shop to make your ride as comfortable as possible, so don't be surprised if this is done before you take your test ride.
Have each bike's tires inflated to full rated pressure, right in front of you. This is as important, if not more so, than the saddle height. If you ride the ultimate carbon-framed bike with its tires carrying only 80psi, vs. a much-less-expensive machine with its tires running at full rated pressure (approx. 120psi), can you guess which is going to have a faster ride??? I recognize that this is going to annoy a whole lot of salespeople, who will pinch a tire with their fingers and say it's fine, but this is a really important point. A tire even 10psi low is not giving you the ride you need. Tires in high-quality bikes have a normal tendency to lose a fair amount of air over a couple week's time, so it should not be a surprise when they need air...it should be expected. Always test-ride with fully-inflated tires, period. Ask if the salesperson could run you through the gears on a stand, just to make sure you know how they're supposed to work (which you probably do) and to ensure that they're properly adjusted.
4. The actual test ride.
Now you're ready for your test ride. Question is, where? There are basically three types of test rides...the classic "parking lot" ride, the "around the block" ride, and the longer "road" ride. The parking lot cruise is useful for having the salesperson check out your position on the bike and, in some cases, is as much of a ride as a customer feels comfortable with (because they don't want to deal with traffic etc.).
Usually, after graduating successfully from the parking-lot ride, you'll want to take it on a bit longer spin around the block, getting up some speed on the straight-aways, or maybe just feeling better because you don't have a salesperson looking at you while you're riding.
By the way, for the parking lot ride, it might be OK to use normal street shoes on clipless pedals, but for anything more, make sure the pedals are compatible with your shoes Ask the bike shop if they have worked out a longer "course" – about 4 miles – that includes various conditions - good pavement, bad pavement, hills, descents and maybe even a combination of head & tailwinds. It’s is important to test the bike under normal conditions and a longer ride will give you a better idea of how the bike performs.
At this point you may have fallen in love and confirmed your suspicions that this is the bike for you! But if that's not the case and you want to test ride another bike, make sure that the seat height is set up exactly the same as it was on that first bike, and have the tires aired up, and run through the gears again.
5. How to compare different bikes...what to look for!
Afraid you won't be able to tell much difference between two bikes? Even if you're inexperienced at cycling? The differences will be more obvious than you think! And what should you look for? Check out for how each bikes accelerates while sitting and standing, comfort over big bumps, how it handles road buzz (vibration from "grainy" road surfaces) For longer rides, find a small hill you can charge up. Why? Because there's nothing that separates a great bike from an also-ran like a hill. A really great bike just feels like it wants to go, even climb, even when you're not in the right gear. An also-ran will have you constantly searching for that right gear, that sweet spot where everything comes together (hopefully). The really great bike just doesn't care...it simply performs.
6. You've found the right bike... now what?
You've found your bike...it's got the right features, feels great while riding, etc. Now you need to get measured for proper fit. The frame size on what you rode might be correct... then again, it might not. At reputable bike shop will take a series of measurements of the rider, to make sure you have not only the correct frame size, but also top-tube plus stem distance (critically important and frequently ignored!), seat-to-handlebar drop, seat height, handlebar width and more. It's not a matter of how much
clearance you have standing over the frame! That might help get you in the ballpark, but since the front-to-back distance of a frame changes with size, your arm & torso measurements might dictate a frame size different than standover height might indicate.
Please note that, in the majority of cases, the stem length on the bike will need to be changed. This isn't a big deal if the shop sells a lot of road bikes...they'll have the various stems in stock and ready to go. Any shop not willing to swap the stem for proper fit
on a road bike may not be a good place to buy one! In most cases, there should be no charge for a stem swap, but there will be times where you have to go to a stem that might cost a bit more, or perhaps because it's a lot higher they might need to replace several cables & housings, which definitely takes a lot of time. In those cases, you could expect to pay a small amount of money to cover the difference and/or the labor involved.
6. Double or Triple crankset for a Road Bike?
A "double" crankset refers to one with two chainrings on the front, representing a mid and high gear range option.
A "triple" crankset refers to one with three chainrings, the extra chainring being a very small one on the inside that gives you a considerably lower gear range than available with the double. This small chain ring is commonly called a "granny gear" as in even your granny can climb a hill in this gear.
In general, a "double" crankset bike will have either 14, 16 or 18 gears, and a "triple" will have 21, 24 or 27 gears.
Things to consider- If you climb in lower gears, you’re not necessarily going to go slower up the hill. In fact, the opposite may occur, as the lower gearing of a triple might be more optimal for your own physique. Not everybody was built with massive muscles, and in most cases, higher RPMs at lower gears will be more in sync with your body than big massive gears that you might barely be able to turn. A bike with a triple usually has about the same high-end (your go-fast gears) range as a double. So in general you’re not giving up anything at the high end but rather adding on at the lower end (meaning that you’re getting new gears to make it easier to go uphill while keeping the high gears that allow you to go fast downhill).
Way-cool high-end bikes are now available with triple cranks right off the showroom floor! It’s no longer the case that the only way to get a super-high-performance frame and wheel set was on a bike with a double crankset. The market has dramatically changed, and there are now as many options with triples as there are with doubles and if the bike you want isn’t available with a triple, chances are that the bike shop can install one on it. Triple-equipped bikes are not just for wimps!!! Even hot-shot riders come across incredibly-steep hills that make him/her think (although rarely aloud) "It sure would be nice to have a lower gear right now!" And besides, just how comfortable do you feel calling every mountain bike rider a wimp? Virtually 100% of them have triple cranks, and they USE the lower gears all the time!
In fact, it’s probably the widespread success of triple-equipped mountain bikes that’s helped fuel demand for the wider range gears on road bikes.
So why wouldn’t everybody get a triple-equipped bike? Many people (particularly men) have this macho-thing about being strong enough to climb a hill without the help of so-called granny gears There’s not much you can do about this type of attitude. The only "cure" is a pair of busted knees, and that "cure" usually ends the cyclists' riding career. It’s still the case that the very highest-end component groups are not available with a triple crankset (specifically Campagnolo Record and Shimano Dura-Ace).
So if you want a $3000+ bike with the very hottest components, it requires a bit of improvisation if you want it with a triple. There remain a number of cyclists that believe tradition is more important than progress, and since early, classic road bikes didn’t have triples 30 years ago, they still shouldn’t now. This is frequently the same type of person who feels that "steel is real" (meaning that any other material, be it aluminum, titanium or carbon-fiber, just isn’t what a bicycle is supposed to be made out of) and probably doesn’t wear a helmet.
And there are truthfully some people so strong that they don’t need a triple crankset, or for inexplicable reasons just don’t have a whole lot of trouble climbing in very tall gears at very high speeds. Alas, there are few of us so afflicted. Finally, there are slight trade-offs in terms of weight (figure an extra half-pound or so of weight) and shifting performance. Not much decline in performance, but the longer chain makes for a bit more work for the rear derailleur, and on the front, shifting between the inside and middle chainrings isn’t quite as precise as the shifting on a double.
Material Assets - Titanium, Carbon Fiber, Aluminum or Steel
Which frame material is best for you?
By John Olsen, Bicycling Magazine
The stiffness, weight, and strength of a bike frame depend on many factors, only some of which involve the material. The optimum frame design for one material will be different for another, because materials vary widely in strength, stiffness, and density (weight).
The best aluminum frames have fat, thin-wall tubes and don't deflect much side to side when you sprint. The best steel frames have smaller-diameter, thin-wall tubes, and flex noticeably in a sprint. Titanium and carbon frames fall in between. Experienced cyclists often divide into camps, with steel riders carping about the excess stiffness of aluminum and aluminum zealots decrying the spongy feel of light steel frames. Here we explain the advantages and disadvantages of the most common frame materials and compare in a graph how stiff they are when compared to steel.
How Stiff is your bike?
A comparison of stiffness (relative to steel) for various frame materials
Steel
Steel is stiff but dense (heavy). Light frames of adequate stiffness and strength are made with relatively small-diameter tubes, but steel isn't the right material for light frames or large strong riders. Mild (inexpensive) steel frames need thick walls to be strong enough, and they're heavy. Stronger steel allows thin tube walls, but then frame stiffness goes down. Recent developments include "air-hardened" steels of very high strength, such as Reynolds 853. (Unlike most other types, air-hardened steels gain rather than lose strength as they cool from welding.) All steels have the same inherent stiffness, regardless of strength - 853 is no stiffer than 1010 (mild steel)
The Good
-
Best steel alloys are very strong
-
Best stiffness overall
-
Long-lasting
-
Air-hardened alloys make ultra-high strength affordable
The Bad
-
Can be heavy - not the materials for big, light frames
-
Rust-prone
Aluminum
Aluminum frames can be very stiff and light because the density is so low, but the tubes have to be much larger in diameter to compensate. Still, these "fat-tube" frames are the prevalent design for quality bikes today. Recent improvements include adding Scandium, an element that increases strength. Overall, aluminum is a great material for stiff, light frames for riders of all sizes. It is also one of two materials that is well suited to unconventional frame shapes.
The Good
-
One-third the density of steel, allowing the use of big tubes
-
Easily formed into aero shapes
-
Even cheap frames can be light
-
Makes a light frame for a big rider
-
Doesn't rust!
The Bad
-
One-third to one-half the strength of best steels and titanium (can break)
-
One-third the stiffness of any steel, which requires larger diameter tubes
-
Modest fatigue strength
-
Not easily repaired or straightened - Big, thin tubes means easy crash damage
Titanium
Titanium has an excellent balance of properties for frame building, and gives the best combination of durability and weight. Titanium alloys are half as stiff as steel, but also half as dense. The strongest titanium alloys are comparable to the strongest steels. Stiff titanium frames need larger-diameter tubes than comparable steel frames, but not as big as aluminum. Titanium is very corrosion resistant, and very light frames can be made stiff enough and strong enough for bigger riders. Most ti frames are the 3Al/2.5V alloy (3% aluminum/2.5% vanadium), though a stronger alloy, 6Al/4V (6% aluminum/4% vanadium) is increasingly used.
The Good
-
Half as dense as steel, making the lightest most resilient frames
-
As strong as most steels
-
Won’t rust - no paint needed
-
Good fatigue strength
-
Makes a light frame for a large rider
The Bad
-
Half as stiff as steel (and known to be somewhat flexy)
-
Difficult to repair
-
Expensive
Carbon Fiber
Individual fibers of carbon are tremendously strong and stiff, but they are useless unless arranged in a strong pattern, and held together with a strong "glue" (usually epoxy). Unlike metals, in which strength and stiffness properties are nearly the same in all directions, carbon fiber composites can be tuned to orient the strength where it's needed (for instance, stiff laterally and compliant vertically). This is the ultimate frame material for unconventional frames and shapes, as it can be molded and tuned more than any metal.
The Good
- Readily molded into exotic shapes
-
Excellent fatigue strength; no rust
-
Strength and stiffness are controllable
-
Low density and high strength make very light strong frames possible
The Bad
-
Expensive raw material
-
A bomb if poorly designed or made (too stiff or too flexible)
-
Can be "notch sensitive" (prone to breakage)
Saddle Issues
In most cases the saddle itself is not the problem. It's more how one sits on the saddle that is at issue here, and it really doesn't matter whether you've got a $10 stock seat or the fanciest $100 aftermarket urologist-approved model...if you're not set up correctly on the bike, you're going to have potential for problems down the road.
First place to start is with the tilt, or angle, of the saddle. In almost no case is it a good idea to ride with a saddle that's tilted up at the front! This focuses the pressure on exactly the wrong areas. As you slide forward on the seat, you're essentially driving your most delicate parts (and the ones that could cause problems down the road) into the nose of the seat if it's "up" at the front. So do you want the seat "down" at the front? That's not a good idea either, because you're going to spend the whole ride pushing back from the handlebars, creating a lot of tension in your arms & shoulders. A level saddle is the best bet.
What if a "level" saddle causes discomfort? Then consider a different saddle. You need to be able to distribute pressure across a wide area, and the only way you're going to be able to do this is if the saddle's level. If this gives you problems at the front of the saddle, then you might look into something with either a cutout or soft layers of foam and/or gel in the appropriate location. But there's more to it than just saddle tilt. If your seat is well above the level of the handlebar, then you're going to be rotating downward over the front of the saddle, once again bringing the wrong areas into hard contact with the seat. This is the #1 reason for saddle-related male problems.
Specifically, note the difference in height between the top of the saddle and the top of the handlebar. For a smaller road bike (up to about 54cm or so) try to keep this difference to 5cm (2 inches) or less. For a mid-sized road bike (up to 58cm) a difference of 6cm (2.5 inches) is acceptable, and for larger bikes, try to avoid greater than an 8cm difference (3 inches). The issue here is that, as the difference becomes too great, the rider is rotating his mid-section downward over the front of the saddle, bringing undue pressure onto exactly the wrong areas. This is far more likely to cause a problem than a saddle!
Why would anyone want a stem so low that it might cause such trouble? Primarily for aerodynamics. Lower stem=less torso and head up in the wind! Triathletes in particular go to great trouble trying to achieve the most aerodynamic position possible, and even serious recreational riders get into aerodynamics as well. But hear this, and hear this clearly. If your saddle/handlebar differential is beyond the recommendations above, or if you're feeling any discomfort in the saddle area, try raising the stem a bit. If this makes cycling more comfortable, your stem was low enough to potentially create serious problems down the road!
Your riding style makes a difference too! Something else to consider. The way you ride might make all the difference in the world. Most injuries don't occur instantly, but rather over a long period of exposure to whatever's causing the problem. If your riding style is such that you sit endlessly on the saddle and never stand up or stretch, you're much more likely to have problems. The best way to
combat this is to regularly take a break from the grind and stand up for a bit, take a breather, stretch a bit, and then get back in the saddle. If you do this on a regular basis, before you start to experience a sore tail end, you'll go a lot further without pain than you would otherwise. Anyone who has miles on a tandem knows this to be true! Even when you're feeling great, you still need to take breaks once in awhile and you'll feel a whole lot better for a whole lot longer.
Cyclists most at risk are those living in flat areas, since it's unlikely they'd find many "natural" excuses to get out of the saddle and stand for a bit. On the other hand, those living in very hilly areas are more likely to find themselves alternating between sitting and standing as they climb. But what about mountain bikes? Different issues here since, in general, mountain bikers don't ride in such an aerodynamic (low) position on their bike, and the frequent need to stand up reduces the likelihood of problems caused by staying in the same position for long periods of time. More likely to cause problems on a mountain bike would be impact with the top tube in the event of a crash...this can really hurt! Nevertheless, it's still possible that An overly aggressive riding position (such as found with a tall rider on a small frame) could cause trouble.
It's all about common sense. And, of course, the other thing that's needed is basic common sense on the part of the rider. If you're uncomfortable on your saddle for any reason, seek the advice of a competent shop or experienced cycling friend! Don't be stupid like the guy quoted in one article, who waited until he was "bloody and numb" before thinking there might be an issue. And don't be quite so willing to sacrifice comfort in a quest for absolute speed.
Bikes for Women:
Did you know that there's a good chance that you're riding a bike that doesn't fit your properly? Perhaps you do and just put up with it because of your love for cycling or maybe you don't even realize there's something you can do about it. Well, there are simple, inexpensive adjustments that can be made to your bike to improve the fit.
-
The Problem:
Why is it so hard to find a bike that one that fits? If you haven't noticed yet, most bikes are built with regards to the average MAN. Therefore, since women tend to be smaller than the average man, finding a bike that fits can be tough. Even when the seat tubes are shortened, many bikes still have the same length top tube as the larger bikes, and therefore even this "shorter" bike won't fit. Women and men do have similar proportions, but if a woman and a man of the same size were to try the same bike, chances are the woman would find it uncomfortable. The reason for this may be the differing riding positions of men and women. It has been suggested that women bend from the waist while men pivot from the hips. Women also tend to sit further back on the seat than men.
-
The Solution:
Shorter stems are the first option to try to give you a more comfortable reach. Also smaller brake levers, narrower handlebars, shorter cranks, and wider saddles are also common on women's bikes-- Georgena Terry was the first to develop alternatives for women and many bike companies have followed her lead by building bikes especially designed for women.
-
Here are some options:
2000 Bianchi Eros Donna Women Specific Design, but I am concerned that it only comes in one frame size Trek 2000WSD Retail: $1,000 Sizes:43cm, 47cm, 52cm
The Alpha SL aluminum frame is lighter on weight and longer on life. The custom WSD (Women's Specific Design) frame design addresses key performance and comfort issues for women. The ICON Carbon Classic carbon fork is light and responsive, and silences road vibration for comfortable, all-day riding. The 650c Rolf Vector wheel set is lighter and accelerates faster for smaller riders. Shimano Tiagra 9-speed drive train (triple).
Trek 2200WSD
Retail: $1,550 est.
The Alpha SL double-butted aluminum frame is lighter on weight and longer on life. The custom WSD (Women's Specific Design) frame design addresses key performance and comfort issues for women. The ICON Carbon Classic carbon fork is light and responsive, and silences road vibration for comfortable, all-day riding. The 650c Rolf Vector wheel set is lighter and accelerates faster for smaller riders. Shimano 105 crank and derailleur (triple)
Trek WSD2300
Retail: $1,850 est.
The light, 2.9 lb. Alpha SLR double-butted aero aluminum frame is hand built in the USA. The custom WSD (Women's Specific Design) frame design addresses key performance and comfort issues for women. The ICON Carbon Classic carbon fork is light and responsive, and silences road vibration for comfortable, all-day riding. The 650c Rolf Vector wheel set is lighter and accelerates faster for smaller riders. Shimano Ultegra crank and 9-speed derailleur (double).
(Editors note: These are by no means recomendations, but are here to give you sense of what can be available. Always shop around!)